Wine hospitality in Friuli Venezia Giulia
From boutique wineries nestled in the Collio hills to elegant estates in the Carso and Friuli Grave, visitors can enjoy guided tastings, vineyard walks, and gourmet pairings rooted in local culture. Friuli Venezia Giulia is a destination where wine, food, and a sense of place come together in a quiet, sophisticated embrace.
The diverse landscapes of Friuli Venezia Giulia switch from hillsides to plains, coastline to mountains within just a few kilometres and the region’s wineries, large and small, and often family run, are just as varied and many offer countryside accommodation or dining.
Gradis’ciutta www.gradisciutta.eu
As a young oenology graduate Robert Princic took charge of the small estate in the Collio area run by his father and grandfather before him, starting to make his own wines rather than simply selling grapes. Since then, the estate, which is certified organic, has grown to 47ha and has made a name for its expressive, egant wines. Princic follows ongoing cross-border projects with Slovenia (https://sinefinis.com) both for wines and for contemporary art, with intriguing works in the vineyards, at the winery and at Borgo Gradis’ciutta where charming b&b accommodation is available at a cluster of beautifully restructured farm buildings surrounded by vines. Here guests can enjoy genuine peace and quiet and help themselves to wines from the well-stocked honesty bar.
Wine to try: Sinefinis Rebolium, Brut Nature
This fresh and vibrant 60 month traditional method spumante is part of a cross-border cooperation with the Ferdinand winery in Brda, Slovenia – Gradisciutta and Ferdinand each contribute 50% of the Ribolla Gialla grapes. The project also involves matching contemporary art installations at the two wineries.
Ronchi di Cialla www.ronchidicialla.it
Celebrated for being the saviours of native red variety Schioppettino, the Rapuzzi family who run this winery surrounded by woodland in the valley of Cialla really believe in their land and their wines. Cialla is an official cru zone in the Colli Orientali denomination area and the varieties grown are all Friuli natives including Ribolla Gialla, Picolit and Verduzzo – together they make the elegant white blend Ciallabianco which is fermented and aged in barriques. In favourable years, the winery also produces a rare dry version of 100% Picolit, with a rich mineral and balsamic character as well as a more traditional sweet version. The family has always maintained an archive of old vintages and the ageing potential of the wines is impressive.
Wine to try: Schioppettino, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC
With the Cialla subzone mention on the label, this is a sip of history: Schioppettino from where it was historically grown for centuries and later saved from extinction by the Rapuzzi family. Elegant and silky, with berry-fruit notes, the wine retains freshness and character for 20 years or more.
Tarlao www.tarlao.eu
Agronomist and winemaker Francesco Tarlao runs his family winery with passion and expertise. It’s just outside Aquileia – which is a must-see for its stunning basilica mosaics and archaeological sites – and the estate’s seven hectares of vines, some several decades years old, include traditional Malvasia Istriana and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso as well as Sauvignon and Pinot Bianco. The on-site restaurant, La Frasca, housed in the 400 year-old farmhouse, has an enticing interior with an open fire (the traditional walk-around fogolar) a wide veranda and patio garden and a menu of typical dishes made with seasonal local produce.
Wine to try: Poc ma Bon, Pinot Bianco, Friuli Aquileia DOC
Made from grapes from three different plots including some 50 year old vines, fermented in steel, this elegant and harmonious Pinot Bianco is dedicated to Francesco’s grandfather, Igino, whose photo features on the label.
Skerk www.skerk.com
At his small winery near the Slovenian border in the south-eastern part of the region, Sandi Skerk aims to make wines that interpret the microclimate and beautiful rocky land of the Carso district. He has created a spectacular and naturally cool ageing cellar by digging into the karst rock and has even started fermenting his wines in limestone tanks, following lengthy experimentation. The 8ha of vines are alberello bush trained and surround the winery at about 250m.asl, except the plot of Glera which overlooks stunning Miramare castle, even closer to the coast. The winery’s tasting room, with rough natural stone walls and sea views, is the fitting setting to try his wines including local varieties Vitovska, Malvasia Istriana and Terrano.
Wine to try: Malvasia Istriana, Venezia Giulia IGT
An inviting golden coloured wine, with intense apricot and mineral notes and a balsamic texture that leaves a clean, fresh finish. Like all the still wines made here, it spends two or three weeks on the skins and the result is generous, yet elegant and very moreish.
Torre Rosazza www.torrerosazza.com
This spot near Rosazzo abbey is a strikingly scenic part of the Colli Orientali area and many of the vine terraces that contribute to the landscape belong to the extensive Torre Rosazza estate. The tower which gives the winery its name was converted into a villa in the 16th century – it has some charming decorative frescoes – while the current management dates from the 1970s. With around 100ha of land, including about 80ha under vine, the choice of vines is wide and resources permit experimentation for the most authentic and enjoyable wines with each vintage. Wines to try include the deliciously intense herby and citrussy blend, Ronco delle Magnolie made with Friulano, Pinot Bianco, Sauvignon and Ribolla Gialla.
Wine to try: Friulano, Friuli Colli Orientali DOC
This version of the region’s favourite white is a full-bodied sip with characterful aromas of jasmine, pear and saffron and an enticing minerality that makes an ideal partner for cold cuts and cheeses. Vines grow on terraces with good day to night temperature swings and fermentation is in steel to bring out freshness.
Fiegl www.fieglvini.it
The Fiegl winery is one of the seven members of the Oslavia producers association who are all passionate about their land and their wines and work closely together to promote the area, which is within Collio and famous for its orange, or skin-contact wines. The Fiegls first bought land here in the late 18th century and it is still very much a family firm, now run by two generations including young cousins Robert the winemaker, Martin, who works in sales, and Matej, responsible for the vines. It was Matej’s initiative to create Oslavia’s Ribolla Gialla vine bank, a nursery to preserve the quality of the local signature variety.
Wine to try: Ribolla Gialla, Orange, Venezia Giulia IGT
A clean, fresh and harmonious orange wine made with three to four weeks of skin contact followed by 12 months’ ageing in wood. Ginger, camomile, acacia flowers and candied citrus notes make it ideal with the tasty local fish soup, called boreto.
Lis Neris www.lisneris.it
Founded in 1879, the family-run Lis Neris estate is at San Lorenzo Isontino, just south of the Collio, roughly midway between Cormons and Gorizia in the Friuli Isonzo DOC area, named after the river Isonzo. It’s thanks to the river pebbles, known locally as claps, which retain the heat of the day, that the grapes manage to mature fully for intense wines with a great capacity for ageing, while temperature swings brought by the regular winds, bring a fragrant elegance. The winery also offers accommodation in four spacious suites with cosy country-style décor in a group of restructured farm buildings.
Wine to try: Gris, Friuli Isonzo DOC
An impressive single-variety Pinot Grigio which ferments in French oak barrels where it stays for 11 months with frequent lees stirring, for an intense and fragrant character. It makes an ideal partner for white meats or seafood and can easily age for as much as 20 years.
Lenardon www.olioevinilenardon.it
Just inland from the lovely fishing village of Muggia, south east of Trieste, Bruno Lenardon’s tiny estate has a fascinating history – for two years during the 1950s the family had an international border running through their farmhouse. It’s worth visiting for more than its past however, as both the wines and olive oils made here are delicious. Bianchera, the local olive cultivar is grown for the intense olive oils and the wines are also traditional local varieties, all fermented in steel and all monovarietal. Some of the vines, which are up to a century old, are pergola trained and include numerous clones of Moscato and Malvasia. The winery is among the few to make the aromatic Moscato Rosa.
Wine to try: Malvasia, Venezia Giulia IGT
With a refreshing acidity thanks also to an early harvest, Lenardon’s Malvasia is ideal with the local seafood or simply on its own. Several different Malvasia clones are grown, including some hundred-year old vines, for concentration and complexity in the wine.
Galliussi https://galliussi.com
A recently founded organic winery with 10ha of terraced vineyards in the beautiful countryside around the historic town of Cividale del Friuli in the Colli Orientali denomination area. Ivo Galiussi planted his first vines in 2018 and, thanks to expert advisors, his wines are already gaining attention. The vines include Merlot for powerful reds as well as resistant varieties (the so-called Piwi vines) for an intense and fragrant white blend of Soreli (Friulano), Rytos and Kretos (Sauvignon). The estate also offers b&b accommodation in three simply furnished, elegant suites, each with its own panoramic terrace, and guests can enjoy drinks by the panoramic outdoor infinity pool.
Wine to try: Portis, Sauvignon Friuli Colli Orientali DOC
Sauvignon Blanc expresses itself to the full here in Colli Orientali and the marly soils together with breezes from the coast in one direction and mountains in the other bring out all the variety’s aromas including sage, elderflower and tomato leaf for this full-bodied and persistent wine.
Valentino Butussi www.butussi.it
Founded over a century ago in 1910, the Butussi family’s organic winery is one of the Colli Orientali denomination area’s longest standing estates. With around 18ha under vine, the wide selection of wines which includes several crus, ranges from local variety Pignolo and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso among the reds through to white Friulano, sparkling Ribolla Gialla and the area’s speciality Pinot Grigio ramato, made with a short period of skin contact for a distinctive coppery colour. Pinot Grigio Ramato is also the name of the winery’s restaurant at Villa Butussi (https://villabutussi.it) where there’s a traditional fogolar fireplace, a relaxed, rustic vibe and accommodation in simple, spacious rooms.
Wine to try: Friuli Colli Orientali Picolit DOCG
Botussi is one of the few wineries to make this historic, astonishingly complex and herby sweet wine nowadays as it’s complex and costly to produce. Picolit vines give low yields and the winemaking process involves 30-45 days of appassimento, followed by fermentation in barrels.
Castello di Spessa www.castellodispessa.it
A wine resort centred around a castle which dates from the 13th century, offering accommodation both in the castle itself with fittingly grand rooms, and in different spots around the estate with more contemporary country-style furnishings. There is an 18 hole golf course with one of the resort’s restaurants at the clubhouse, a wine therapy spa and even a heliport. The estate’s 88ha of vines grow both here in the Collio hills and in the Friuli Isonzo DOC denomination area and tastings are available of the range of expressive wines, which include Casanova, a rich Pinot Nero named after one of the castle’s former guests.
Wine to try: Rassauer, Friulano, Collio DOC
An extremely complex Friulano showing peach and apricot notes on the nose with a creamy and satisfying mouthfeel revealing a hint of warm spices and a long savoury finish. The wine is fermented in steel, with several days of skin contact for a small percentage.
