Wineries to visit and wines to try – in Umbria
The gorgeous Umbrian countryside is home to a great diversity of wineries, from striking medieval castles and hostels to quaint storybook farmhouses. Many offer meals and stylish, comfortable or atmospheric accommodation making them a perfect base for visiting the region known as Italy’s green heart, with forays to explore its numerous celebrated cities of art.
Lungarotti https://lungarotti.it/eng
Lungarotti is a major player and ambassador for the Umbrian wine scene yet still very much family-run, with second-generation Chiara Lungarotti in charge. While they now also have an estate at Montefalco, the main base, since the winery was founded in 1962, has been at Torgiano just south of the regional capital, Perugia. In addition to the winery, Lungarotti has one of Italy’s top wine museums, MUVIT at Torgiano, with over 3,000 implements and artworks as well as a fascinating and evocative olive oil museum. Accommodation is at the charming Poggio alle Vigne agriturismo with stunning views from the terrace; winery tours and tastings are available and the Osteria del Museo serves tasty local dishes.
Wine to try: Rubesco, Rosso di Torgiano DOC
This elegant, intense red has been the winery’s most representative since its first, 1962, vintage. Some Colorino grape is added to Sangiovese for an intense, fragrant and fresh wine with appealing fruit and minerality. The label shows the grape harvest depicted on Perugia’s 13th century Fonte Maggiore fountain.
Leonardo Bussoletti www.leonardobussoletti.it
Leonardo Bussoletti has successfully pioneered the return in southern Umbria of the Ciliegiolo variety, a parent grape of Sangiovese. He’s passionate about his land and his work and this shows in the wines, the majority of which are Ciliegiolo based, including a rosé. His 10ha under vine (all organic) are near the town of Narni which gave its name to the famous Narnia stories by C.S. Lewis and the range includes several with labels inspired by the stories. The area is also linked to the history of St Francis and Bussoletti’s limited edition wine, Speco, a Ciliegiolo created to celebrate the 800th anniversary year of the Umbrian saint in 2026, is a work of art.
Wine to try: Ràmici, Narni IGT
This Ciliegiolo cru is made from 50 year-old vines growing on sandy soil near the banks of the River Tiber. The variety’s fruity character (the word Ciliegiolo comes from the Italian for cherry) together with 24 months in large barrels makes for a smooth, velvety, intense and elegant wine with fruit, spice and balsamic notes.
Palazzone https://palazzone.com
Excellent Orvieto Classico wines and stylish accommodation combining contemporary art and design with historical elements in the medieval stone-built Locanda (https://locandapalazzone.it/) just outside the city. A visit or, even better, a stay at the Palazzone winery, is a must. The estate’s 25ha of vineyards surround the Locanda and winery while other features include an Etruscan cave used as an ageing cellar. Cookery classes, truffle hunting experiences and yoga can be organised, there’s an open-air pool and the Locanda provides maps for country walks. Owner Giovanni Dubini is behind the wines together with winemaker son Pietro.
Wine to try: Campo del Guardiano, Orvieto Classico Superiore DOC
While the exact blend for this characterful white wine varies according to the vintage, it’s always based around Trebbiano and Grechetto from a single east-facing plot at 300m.asl. Eighteen months of bottle ageing allow the aromas to develop for a complex and well-structured wine that’s intense and enticing.
Arnaldo Caprai www.arnaldocaprai.it
Since it was founded in 1971, the winery, which has around 160ha under vine in four different areas of the Montefalco denomination, has been fundamental to the development of Sagrantino production. The family was the first to export their Sagrantino the the US and also pioneered wine tourism in the area, initiating the Strada del Sagrantino wine route, Italy’s first. Experimentation and innovation is always on the agenda in the cellar, too and the winery enthusiastically partners social, cultural and artistic initiatives. Visitor experiences include vertical tastings and picnics on a panoramic terrace among the vines.
Wine to try: Collepiano, Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG
Named after the gentle hills where the grapes are sourced, this is the winery’s most contemporary Sagrantino, with an elegant balsamic character. After 22 months in barriques, at least six in the bottle, and great ageing potential, the aromas recall blackberry, vanilla, pepper and cloves.
Le Cimate www.lecimate.it
Run by third generation Paolo Bartoloni, current president of the Montefalco wine consortium, this family-run winery has 23ha under vine plus extensive olive groves and a hazelnut plantation on their extensive 170ha estate which, at 400m.asl, benefits from favourable day-night temperature swings. The winery makes some excellent Trebbiano Spoletino – a Traditional Method spumante and passito as well as a dry version, and of course Montefalco Sagrantino, including the elegant limited edition Donna Giulia, first made in 2011 to celebrate the birth of Bartoloni’s daughter. For such a special wine, the grapes were pressed by a hand-operated traditional press.
Wine to try: Trebbiano Spoletino Superiore DOC
This impressive wood-fermented white wine has a fresh mineral-infused aroma profile with hints of acacia. It spends a year in the bottle before release and is an ideal candidate for ageing further or enjoying right away with a typically Umbrian dish of tasty truffle pasta.
Tenuta Alzatura www.tenuta-alzatura.it/
The allure of the Sagrantino grape led the Cecchi family, a historic Chianti Classico producer, to invest in land in the Montefalco area in the late 1990s. Grapes are sourced from three separate plots with varied soils, for a total of 30ha. The range of organic wines produced includes whites made with the characterful local Trebbiano Spoletino (both steel and oak-aged versions) as well as a smooth Montefalco Rosso blend of Sangiovese, Sagrantino and Merlot. Tastings can include a typical Umbrian lunch, with dishes that pair perfectly with the wines.
Wine to try: Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG
Sagrantino grapes grown at 350m.asl are harvested by hand and undergo two weeks of skin contact before ageing for 16 months in barriques. The result is a refined, structured wine characterised by blackberry, vanilla and coffee notes that make it ideal with game, tasty cheeses and braised beef.
Madrevite www.madrevite.com/
Nicola Chiucchiurlotto decided to replant his grandfather’s vines and create the Madrevite winery in 2003. The location is stunning, near Lake Trasimeno in northern Umbria and Lake Chiusi, just over the border in Tuscany and the summer weekend Picnicco events make the most of the sunset views. The estate covers 60ha of land with farmland and woodland, 11ha under vine and about 5ha of olives. Since he began, Chiucchiurlotto has been instrumental in the return of the traditional local grape, Gamay del Trasimeno, known elsewhere as Grenache, as well as the area’s typical variety of been, fagiolina del Trasimeno, which is now a Slow Food presidium. The winery also serves traditional dishes as well as offering wine tastings.
Wine to try: C’osa, Trasimeno DOC Gamay del Trasimeno Riserva
As with the producer’s other wines, fermentation is spontaneous for this enticing Grenache which ages for six months in concrete and a further year in large oak barrels and concrete. The pale colour of the wine reflects the elegance of its aromas – forest fruits, raspberry, strawberry and cherry.
Antonelli San Marco www.antonellisanmarco.it
This historic organic estate, previously property of the bishops of Spoleto, has been owned by the Antonelli family since they bought the land in 1883. It’s now run by fifth generation Filippo Antonelli and with a total of 190ha there is plenty of space for diversity. In addition to 60ha under vine, planted with varieties that are typical of the area such as Sagrantino, Sangiovese, Trebbiano Spoletino and Grechetto, the estate has 13ha of olive trees, large areas of woodland and semi free-range pigs. Experiences include meals paired with estate wines, cookery classes and truffle hunting; accommodation is available.
Wine to try: Vigna Tonda, Trebbiano Spoletino DOC
An intense and evocative single-variety cru Trebbiano Spoletino made from grapes sourced at a historical circular vineyard. Spontaneous fermentation and prolonged skin contact in concrete vessels is followed by several months in terracotta amphoras for a memorable wine with a rich lemon and herb-infused character.
Carini www.agrariacarini.it
Just 10km from Perugia and close to Lake Trasimeno, this organic estat
e has a charming farmhouse tasting room and plenty to see and do including Cinta Senese pigs, Suffolk sheep and a Big Bench viewpoint. The estate covers 140ha altogether with around 9ha of olives and 12ha under vine planted with some of the lake area’s Gamay del Trasimeno as well as Trebbiano Spoletino, Sangiovese and international varieties for a range that includes some interesting blends. Experiences include grape and olive harvesting, cookery classes, horse-riding and truffle hunting as well as thematic tastings with the estate’s speciality salumi and other produce.
Wine to try: Le Cupe, Umbria Rosato IGT
A delicate and intriguing pale pink Gamay del Trasimeno rosé with a fresh and enjoyable personality that’s characterised by pomegranate, grapefruit and redcurrant notes which, together with a long savoury finish, make this a very moreish wine.
Castello di Montegiove www.castellomontegiove.com
Current owner, agronomist Lorenzo Misciatelli, moved to this stunning 13th century stone castle from Denmark in the early 2000s when he inherited the land, which has been owned by his family since 1780. The 1200ha estate which overlooks the Monte Peglia UNESCO biosphere, is largely made up of woodland, with around 13ha of vines, and sits at 380-620m.asl. Visits include tours of the castle and its 500 year-old cellars where the wines are still made and guest accommodation is in three spacious country-style apartments in a converted olive mill. Along with the principally red estate wines, guests can enjoy flavoursome olive oil from centuries old olive trees.
Wine to try: Elicius, Rosso Orvietano DOC
An intensely coloured and flavourful red blend of largely Montepulciano with 30% Sagrantino grown at 450-500m.asl. While the Montepulciano ferments in concrete, the Sagrantino ferments in steel tanks and the resulting blend, which spends up to two years in different sized barrels, is powerful yet elegant.
