ALTO ADIGE– stay, eat and taste at stunning historic wineries
Alto Adige is a dynamic wine region known for its wineries, but amidst the scenic vineyards and landscapes lie a growing number of small, up-and-coming estates worth discovering.
Hofstätter www.hofstatter.com
When Martin Foradori Hofstätter took over his family’s winery in Termeno in 1992 he set about expanding and modernising the estate which now has over 50ha under vine as well as plots in Trentino and Mosel in Germany. He is the fourth generation of his family to run the winery and led the way in the area in terms of zoning studies, researching terroirs so that each variety of vine is planted in the perfect position. It follows that the most exclusive range is made up of single-vineyard wines. The estate’s top variety is Gewürztraminer, which actually takes its name from the village of Termeno where the winery is based and the Hofstätters have been instrumental to its history. Don’t miss the exquisite, intense Kolbenhof Gewürztraminer cru.
Klosterhof www.klosterhof.it
The Andergassens are a family of passionate wine producers and they have been growing vines at Lake Caldaro for generations – their oldest vines date back at least 85 years. Schiava, Pinot Bianco and Pinot Nero are the principal varieties and the family philosophy is for low yields and long ageing for the highest quality wines possible. For the past ten years they’ve also distilled their own spirits both with marc and with fruit such as apricots and pears. Seeds and skins from Pinot Nero are used for some of the beauty and wellness treatments on offer at the hotel’s wine spa too. The winery offers accommodation in unpretentious, comfortable rooms and apartments and simple local dishes and platters and there’s nothing better than spending an evening relaxing with a bottle on the garden terrace.
Schloss Plars www.schlossplars.com
This striking castle was built in the late 19th century to recall the architecture of centuries past with hints of Renaissance and Romanesque. Franz, grandfather of current owner Andreas Theiner, bought the estate in 1911 after completing his agricultural studies and he started making wine here. Wine is still the key focus today and the vines, including local reds Schiava and Lagrein alongside Pinot Bianco and Sauvignon, grow on scenic hillsides around the castle. Nowadays the estate also offers accommodation in simple, elegant rooms, there’s an infinity pool overlooking the vines and cakes for breakfast are made by Theiner’s wife, Irene. Visitors can take part in hands-on winemaker experiences or vineyard hikes, or simply enjoy the wines with platters of local speck and other typical snacks.
Wasserhof wassererhof.com
A meal of tasty traditional dishes paired with estate wines at the cosy stone interior of the Wasserhof countryside tavern, or buschenschank, is a memorable experience. While this maso (the local word for a small farm) actually dates back to the 14th century, the Mock family has been here since the mid-1990s and since restoring the wood and stone structure beautifully, Christoph Mock concentrates on making characterful and expressive wines, while his brother Andreas runs the restaurant, cooking tasty Alto Adige specialities such as canederli dumplings made with local cheeses, beetroot or leeks. The atmosphere at the farm is even more magical during the traditional Törgellen time in the autumn when chestnuts and wine events abound in the region.
Abbazia di Novacella kloster-neustift.it
No wine-themed trip to Alto Adige would be complete without a visit to this historic abbey, home to one of the world’s oldest continuously functioning wineries. It’s still run by friars, and in exemplary fashion, in the cool-climate Valle Isarco, famous for its fragrant white wines. Around 70% of wines produced are in fact whites – Sylvaner, the main speciality, alongside Muller Thurgau, Kerner and Riesling. Vines grow at altitudes up to 900m asl and the resulting wines are memorably fresh and fragrant, especially the winery’s top range, Praepositus. It’s a stunning place to visit – in addition to fascinating winery tours and tastings, there’s a museum, garden and an informal tavern serving traditional food with the abbey’s wines.
Zollweghof www.zollweghof.it
Franz Pfeifhofer and partner Irmgard are behind this small and welcoming Demeter-certified biodynamic winery where wine is made in a historic cellar dating back to the 14th century. Pfeifhofer, who grew up on the estate, is a founder member of the Alto Adige PIWI association and works principally with fungus resistant PIWI varieties of vine for a range of fresh, contemporary wines such as a Souvigner Gris from amphorae made in local clay. He also makes a fresh and fruity white with grapes from 70-year old vines of the historic local Fraueler variety, and another aromatised with local herbs. Irmgard shares Franz’s enthusiasm for their work and provides a warm welcome to visitors as nature guide and host, accompanying countryside walks as well as winery tastings.
Pacherhof www.pacherhof.com
Exquisite white wines from 8ha of vines growing at 650m-900m.asl and aged in an atmospheric 12th century wine cellar are reason enough to visit this historic family-run winery in the Valle Isarco area, while stylish accommodation and an excellent restaurant that is both traditional and refined, make it a must. Guests can relax at the spa, which has heated indoor and outdoor pools, and enjoy delicious meals incorporating ingredients sourced from nearby farms as well as home-grown fruit, vegetables and herbs, paired with estate wines in the cosy wood-panelled stube dining room or on the panoramic terrace. The estate, which pre-dates nearby Novacella abbey and has been run by the Huber family for centuries, strikes a perfect balance between historic authenticity and contemporary style.
Bike Wine Ambassador www.suedtiroler-mountainbikeguide.com/it/bike-wine
If you love taking part in wine tours but feel the need for something more active than traditional winery visits then one of Alto Adige’s 20 Bike Wine ambassadors might have the perfect answer. Tours are tailored to individual requests and you can pedal through stunning scenery, stopping to learn details and insights about terrains, training systems and varieties and try wines made in that particular spot. Winery tours and tastings at specific estates can also be included. These qualified bike guides have been specially trained to share their knowledge and love of the region’s wine scene with guests thanks to an initiative between the Alto Adige association of mountain bike guides and the regional wine consortium and provide a wonderful way to really get under the skin of the local wine scene.
