An interview with Paolo Bartoloni, owner of Le Cimate winery and President of the Montefalco wine consortium
Paolo Bartoloni is the third generation owner at his family’s wine and olive oil estate. After graduating from university in agriculture in 2010, he threw his energies and enthusiasm into building a new wine cellar and so launching a new entity for the family: Le Cimate winery. His ongoing commitment to ensuring that each wine has a clear identity is guided by culture, tradition and innovation. In his current position as president of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco, Bartoloni contributes to the promotion of the territory and its wines. He has also recently been nominated as councillor to Confagricoltura Umbria, the region’s confederation of farmers, once again with the aim of supporting local farming and wine production.
Has the recent trend for lighter, more slender wines influenced Montefalco Sagrantino production? Is there still a market for the typically powerful Sagrantino of the past?
First of all I think it’s important to point out that today’s Sagrantino is not the same as the powerful and extremely tannic wines of the past. It has evolved over time, maintaining its identity but with greater elegance, harmony and balance. The trend for lighter wines is of course shaping world markets but I don’t believe that this phenomenon has much influence on denominations with such a strong character and territorial identity as Montefalco. Our Sagrantino doesn’t need to follow trends, its strength is in its unique, well-defined character and ability to evoke its land of origin. The situation is different for denominations like Amarone and Barolo which have much larger production volumes – it’s inevitable that they feel the effects of changes on the international market to a greater extent.
What about Montefalco Rosso, how is the market going?
Montefalco Rosso is going through a positive moment. It’s sold at an accessible price and currently it’s one of the Umbria region’s most successful denominations both in terms of visibility and regarding sales volumes. It’s an excellent calling card for Umbria for the market outside the region as it’s a very versatile wine, both immediately enjoyable and with notable structure and a strong regional identity. These are all elements that are greatly appreciated by consumers.
There have been recent changes regarding Trebbiano Spoletino, a variety that’s inspiring increasing interest. What do the changes involve?
We decided to update the production protocol in order to boost the visibility of Trebbiano Spoletino, a variety that’s recently been inspiring much interest. Specifically, we have simplified some aspects and introduced new styles and production techniques such as Traditional Method and Trebbiano Spoletino Riserva, and we’ve included more detailed definitions of skin contact, colours and alcohol levels. In addition, this May we requested an enlargement of the official production area to include land which is currently covered by the Montefalco DOCG but not the Trebbiano Spoletino denomination. Our aim is for the two denomination areas to coincide exactly, also including Spoleto itself, in order to strengthen the identity and potential of the variety still more.
Is the production of sparkling versions of Trebbiano Spoletino also increasing?
Yes, sparkling Trebbiano Spoletino production is growing. The variety is ideal for spumante wines thanks to its natural acidity and aromatic profile characterised by peach and floral aromas. Production levels are still modest – not much more than 10,000 bottles are declared for the DOC – but we believe that we are at the start of a new cultural and experimental era. The priority is high quality however and first of all we have to consolidate the style and then work on domestic promotion before increasing visibility on the international market.
How are the pass to versions of Sagrantino and Trebbiano Spoletino received?
Sagrantino Passito is undoubtedly one of our most genuinely traditional wines. It’s played a part in the local culture and been a firm presence on our tables for centuries. Nowadays around 80,000 bottles are produced annually and while it’s a niche product it continues to be an important symbol for Montefalco. The situation is very different for Trebbiano Spoletino Passito DOC which is still a newcomer. Currently my winery (Le Cimate) is the only one to have made it with continuity over the past four years so the figures are still very limited. I believe however that it has great potential for the future.
Talking of wine tourism, Umbria is one of the most successful Italian regions for the MTV (Movimento Turismo del Vino) open cellars (Cantine Aperte) initiatives. Is wine tourism well developed in the region away from these national events?
First I should point out that the organisation and promotion of wine tourism is largely the responsibility of the Strada del Sagrantino while the Consorzio deals with the promotion of the area and its wine denominations, indirectly attracting thousands of visitors each year through dedicated events and initiatives. Umbria is certainly one of the most successful region’s for the Cantine Aperte initiative – it’s a real phenomenon that deserves to be studied in order to understand its ability to attract so many people. Wine tourism is of course not limited to large-scale events: it requires ongoing dedication and synergy between local actors including wineries, hotels, agriturismi, restaurants and tour operators offering experiences such as bike tours, hiking and other outdoor activities. It’s only through structured cooperation that we can offer a complete experience and render Montefalco an ever more attractive year-round destination.
Which is the best time of year for wine tourists to visit the area?
The most fascinating period is undoubtedly during harvest, which is followed by the autumn colours of the countryside that are particularly inspiring. So I’d say that the most attractive season to visit is from September to early November when the landscape, winery activities and foodie experiences are at their peak. May and June are also good months to visit however, thanks to the mild climate and the relaxed rhythms of the countryside.
How are Umbrian wines seen on the international market compared to Italian wines in general? Do the region’s various wine consortiums work together to raise the profile?
Umbrian wines are enjoying an ever more positive reputation on the international market. They are appreciated for their quality, elegance, aroma and contemporary character and for their strong territorial expressiveness. There is still a lot to do in terms of international marketing however as we are still less competitive than other regions. This is sometimes linked to the financial resources available to each consortium and region for promotion. Umbria is going through a very positive period however and many well-known people are visiting or even buying homes in the region. I certainly hope that over the coming years this can help contribute to improving the situation of Umbrian wines on the international scene.
And finally, would you like to recommend a favourite pairing between the excellent local food and Montefalco wines?
With the wealth of excellent food our area offers it would be impossible to cite just one favourite pairing. For a traditional match I’d suggest the typical Easter pairing of lamb alla scottadito with Sagrantino Passito, while dry Sagrantino is perfect with game, especially birds. Montefalco Rosso on the other hand is ideal with Mediterranean cuisine and the typical dishes of Rome, thanks to its great versatility. Lastly, Trebbiano Spoletino creates an extraordinary partnership with homemade pasta and the genuine flavours of our land, such as black truffle, wild asparagus, porcini mushrooms and grilled vegetables from the Umbrian countryside.
