Exploring the wineries of Oltrepò Pavese
Historic, contemporary, low-key or upbeat – the wineries located among the gorgeous hills of Oltrepò Pavese are hugely varied and all offer a warm welcome. Here is a round-up with a few favourites to visit, plus tips on some of the wines to try while you’re there.
Conte Vistarino www.contevistarino.it
For Pinot Nero lovers, a visit to Conte Vistarino is almost like a pilgrimage as it was the count himself who planted Italy’s first Pinot Nero in 1850. Several generations later, the 826ha estate is still intact and run with passion and insight by Ottavia: more than a third of the land is wooded, keeping the 100ha of vines fresh and maintaining a wide-ranging biodiversity. The winery is an inspiring mix of historical authenticity and contemporary technology and the on-site wine bar is open daily while the panoramic rose terrace is an lovely spot for warm weather tastings.
*Wine to try: 1865 – Metodo Classico Pinot Nero DOCG Dosaggio Zero
Vibrant and lemony, this wonderfully fresh and savoury brut nature sparkling wine spends 60 months on the lees and is just one of a range of memorable wines made at this historical winery. Try too the three red Pinot Nero crus – Pernice, Bertone and Tavernetto.
Frecciarossa www.frecciarossa.com
A charming location with an agriturismo restaurant (open Friday-Sunday), simple rooms and a warm and friendly welcome are what to expect here. Mario Odero, great grandfather of current owner, Valeria, bought the estate in 1919, having fallen in love with the Oltrepò Pavese hills, and it was his son Giorgio who planted the Pinot Nero vines – his wines were even appreciated by Alfred Hitchcock, as testified by a thank-you note. In addition to 20ha of vines, the estate grows vegetables, fruit and hazelnuts while the farm animals include cattle and chickens.
*Wine to try: Giorgio Odero – Pinot Nero DOC
Specially selected grapes are hand picked from a single historic vineyard adjacent to the winery for this, the estate’s intensely spicy flagship wine. It spends a year in oak, followed by six months in steel and a year of bottle ageing before being released.
Tenuta Travaglino www.travaglino.com
This historic estate is run by brother and sister Alessandro and Cristina Cerri Comi, the fifth generation of the family here, together with winemaker Achille Bergami. With a total area of 400ha and 80ha under vine it’s a major player in the Oltrepò Pavese wine scene. The winery’s location – a medieval monastery complex – is simply stunning and there are gorgeous panoramic views from the Big Bench viewpoint. A 5-10 minute walk from the winery, Locanda Calvignano, which has bedrooms and a restaurant, is owned by the estate but under separate management.
*Wine to try: Poggio della Buttinera – Pinot Nero Riserva DOC
An elegant and smooth Pinot Nero from a single vineyard very close to the winery itself. After ageing a year in oak and a further year in the bottle, the resulting wine is fresh and fruity with hints of wild strawberry, cherry and spice.
Barbacarlo (call to visit: +39 0385 53890 – +39 0385 51212)
Lino Maga first started bottling his legendary Barbacarlo in 1958 and nowadays his son, Giuseppe, continues the producer’s eccentric traditions. Barbacarlo (which means ‘uncle Carlo’ in dialect) is a hill just behind the town of Broni in the eastern part of Oltrepò Pavese, named after a relative by the Maga family of the time. The hill has 4ha of Croatina, Uva Rara and Vespolina vines that are on average 60 years old, while the family’s nearby Montebuono vineyard has around 3ha of the same varieties. A visit to the tasting room and shop in Broni is memorable and like taking a step back in time.
*Wine to try: Barbacarlo IGT
Powerful and complex, this is a wine that can age for several decades and still retain its character, which varies each year but generally includes fresh fruity and spicy notes, and a harmonious yet tannic structure. Fermentation is spontaneous in old oak barrels and the wine is not filtered.
Prime Alture https://primealture.it
Just uphill from the town of Casteggio, Prime Alture is both a working winery and a small wine resort offering simple yet stylish and spacious accommodation with six suites, each with its own wine fridge and patio or terrace. Owner Roberto Lechiancole, a warm and hospitable host, used original materials to rebuild the farmhouse conversion. There’s an open-air salt-water pool overlooking the vines, a gym and spa, and an excellent restaurant in a beautifully restructured former barn with a large panoramic terrace. The estate’s 10ha of vines surround the resort and the wine is actually made downstairs.
*Wine to try: Madame – Chardonnay IGT
In addition to the Traditional Method and still Pinot Nero, make sure to taste Madame, a single-variety Chardonnay that ages in a combination of barriques, large barrels and steel. Bursting with aroma, it’s a tempting combination of golden fruit and buttery vanilla.
Torre degli Alberi www.torredeglialberi.it
Father and son team Camillo and Giacomo are the latest generations of the ancient noble Dal Verme family who have owned the Torre degli Alberi tower – which now houses the winery’s atmospheric tasting room – since the Middle Ages.
The winery is certified organic and concentrates exclusively on Pinot Nero, making only Traditional Method sparkling wines from 4ha vineyards high in the hills at 500m asl. The position benefits from considerable day to night temperature swings, bringing finesse and elegance to the wines. Organic farming methods include the use of manure from the estate’s cattle as fertiliser on the chalky clay-based soil.
*Wine to try: Metodo Classico DOCG – Cruasé
Throughout Oltrepò Pavese, vintage Traditional Method Pinot Nero rosé sparkling wines are referred to as Cruasé. Torre degli Alberi makes an admirable 48 month version with eight hours of skin contact for a delicate onion-skin colour, and fine aromas.
Calatroni www.calatronivini.com
This award-winning organic winery is currently run by the third generation brothers Stefano and Cristian Calatroni. It’s based in the Valle Versa – the eastern part of the Oltrepò Pavese region and there is an on-site agriturismo restaurant that’s open for lunch from Friday to Sunday, serving typical specialities made with ingredients sourced from small local producers. A good way to explore the 25ha estate is to join one of the winery’s regular wine trekking events or go for a vineyard picnic with stunning panoramic views.
*Wine to try: Poggio del Duca Pas Dosé – Metodo Classico DOCG Pinot Nero
A Blanc de Noir which spends 48 months on the lees, made with grapes from 40 year-old Pinot Nero vines from a single vineyard at 540m asl. Zingy, minty fresh, herbaceous and mineral-infused, the 2019 vintage has been named the top sparkling wine of 2025 by Italy’s leading food and wine publication, Gambero Rosso.
Montelio www.montelio.it
Montelio, one of Oltrepò Pavese’s longest standing family-run wineries, dates back over 200 years, to when it was founded on land that had been confiscated from the church during the early 19th century period of Napoleonic rule. The 30ha under vine includes Cortese, the Gavi grape from neighbouring Piedmont used here for still, sparkling and semi-sparkling wines. The family motto, Natura Docens, demonstrates their deep-rooted respect for the land and tastings are held in the atmospheric historic wine cellar. A series of former farmworkers’ cottages have been converted into six comfortable apartments with beamed ceilings and kitchen facilities.
*Wine to try: Gaìna – Pavia Rosso IGT
If you love the appeal of lesser-known native grape varieties, then don’t miss Montelio’s Gaìna. It’s made with the rare red Uva Cassina grape, rediscovered here thanks to university research. The wine, which ferments in concrete tanks and ages in used barriques, is an intense ruby red with rich fruit and spice aromas.
