Paestum Wine Fest 2024
The Paestum Wine Fest, now in its thirteenth year, is organised by a private company based in Capaccio Paestum. The venue is an ex-tabacchificio, which apart from being a notable example of industrial architecture of the 1920s, with its 8,000 square metres of exhibition space is a highly functional setting for large scale events. Exhibitors in the main show area included a number of leading distributors, a limited number of wine consorzi and just over 100 individual stands. Southern regions were the most represented with a total of 70 producers, of which 57 were from Campania. Of the 24,000 entrances over the three days, (up from 22,000 of last year) almost a third were trade visitors, an indication of the B2B orientation of the show.
Tasting notes
I took advantage of the rare opportunity to get such an extensive overview of the wines of the region, to taste exclusively from Campania. Over the three days, I met 51 producers and tasted a total of 167 wines, mainly white. Here, in alphabetical order, are my top wines.
Calafé (Avellino) Greco di Tufo Aria Vechia 2018
Some maturity showing in the slightly saline, wet rock character of the nose, juicy, crisp palate, good body, firm structure and distinctly mineral finish. Muscular white.
Barbato 1907 (Caserta) Asprinio Brut metodo classico millessimato 2022
From traditional alberata vines, buttercup yellow, grassy, bitter herbs nose, intense and angular on the palate with a finish of chestnut flower honey. Huge vitality.
Cantine Astroni (Napoli) Campi Flagrei Falanghina Vigna Astroni 2019
Intense nose of citrus with hay, wet wool and wild herbs and a concentrated palate with a return of lavendar and mint in the powerful aromatic finish. Distinctive personality.
Casa Setaro (Napoli) Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco Munazei 2022
Big white fruit nose with a distinct, tangy volcanic soil note and a palate with medium weight and structure but attractive, flavoursome, herby character. Great representative of the DOC.
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Casula Vinaria, Salerno, Aglianico Colli di Salerno Gramigna 2018
From old, low yielding ungrafted vines, an Agliancio of great finesse and complexity on the nose with notes of juniper and myrtle berry and a beautifully textured palate of depth and intensity. Sublime.
Contrada Mito (Avellino) Fiano di Avellino Lessenza 2021
Concentrated nose of lemon peel, baked pear and dried apricot, full round entry, long, dry savoury progression. Great now, but with ageing potential.
Crateca (Ischia) Crateca Bianco 2022
Delicate but precise on the nose with white peach and hawthorn aromas and a juicy, fluid palate with a fresh, tangy finish. Appetising.
De Angelis (Sorrento) Sorrento Peninsula Bianco 2022
A white blend from the lower slopes of Vesuvio with ripe stone fruit and marked smoky character on the nose and creme fraiche on the palate, long and savoury in the finish. Not over refined, but bags of personality
Famiglia Pagano (Avellino) Greco di Tufo Riserva Mefite 2022
White fruit and citrus nose and all the crisp agility of sandy soil Fiano on the palate with an intense tangy finish. Exemplary.
Fassanella (Salerno) Paestum Fiano 2022
Lemon peel, limes and pear on the nose, with a touch of oak in the background, good concentration of flavour on the palate and a round, ripe finish. Nicely crafted.
I Patrizi (Avellino) Fiano di Avellino XII Tavole 2022
Complex nose of maquis, moss and lemon cream and a long, dry, vertical palate with intense savoury-fruit finish. Serious, concentrated white.
I Satoli (Avellino) Fiano di Avellino Pù Alto 2020
Hawthorn and citrus with a leafy nuance and hints of almond on the nose and an intense, firm, bone dry palate with a long flinty finish. Super.
Laura de Vito (Avellino) Fiano di Avellino Elle 2021
A cuvée of wines from three different sites (each also bottled as single crus), this has pristine aromas of white blossom and new harvest apples, depth on the palate and an infinitely long crisp finish. Superb.
La Guardiense (Benevento) Falangina del Sannio Janare Sanete 2022
Sweet floral nose, broad, full-bodied palate with solid structure and a fleshy finish with a return of aromatic herbs. Food wine.
Mastroberardino (Avellino) Fiano di Avellino Riserva Stilema 2019
Intense citrus and saline, oyster water nose and a tense, bone dry, vertical palate of great intensity with a lightly chalky character in the finish. Classic.
Portalano, Mario (Napoli) Campi Flegrei Falanghina 2022
Ripe, sweet red apple and rose petal on the nose, soft and fleshy palate with a concentrated ripe fruit finish underscored by a subtle saline note. Expresssive.
Tenuta Augustea (Napoli) Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco Era ’79, 2022
Complex nose of pot pourri, moss and laurel with hints of wild mint. Big impact entry, long fluid progression and slightly ferrous note in the finish. Intruiging.
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Tenuta Sant’Agostino, (Benevento) Beneventano Bianco Scomposto 2022
Vinified in anfora, this is a soft textured, aromatic malvasia di candia with ripe yellow peach, lemon and pear on the nose and a slightly chalky note in the finish. Charming.
Terre del Paladino (Napoli) Campania Falanghina, Venere del Mare 2020
Late picked for aromatic complexity, this has bees wax, bitter orange peel and candied fruit
on the nose and a soft palate with lowish acidity but a tangy mineral finish. Interesting interpretation of the variety.
Tredaniele (Salerno) Brut Rosé metodo classico
Firm mousse and super-fine perlage, red cherry on the nose and a creamy, dry palate with a crisp finish. Classic, fresh, pinot noir rosé.
Vigne Guadagno (Avellino) Fiano di Avellino Extra Brut Metodo Classico n/v
Chalky, mineral nose with hints of golden delicious apple and a vigorous, bone dry palate with super fine texture and mouth-wateringly crisp finish. Impeccable.
Villa Dora (Napoli) Lacryma Christi del Vesuvio Bianco 2016
Released in 2022, this has an intense flinty nose with zappy citrus and distinct hint of wood smoke, delicate structure, but great energy on the palate and an intense saline finish. Terroir wine.
Viticoltori del Casavecchia (Caserta) Palagrello Bianco 2022
Typical varietal nose of sweet herbaceous border and white melon, soft palate, with delicate structure but concentrated fruit and savoury finish. Understated, but full of personality.
Take Aways from the Show
There are an extraordinary number of very interesting estates in Campania that slip under the radar of the national guides
The strongest terroirs to emerge were those of Irpinia, Campi Flegrei and Cilento
White winemaking showed very little use of oak and where it was present, it was very discretely handled
Remarkably, over the three days, I tasted exclusively native varieties
Fiano for me was the aristocrat, which showed its ability to shine both in fresh styles and with bottle age.
Sparkling wines from Campania are a very interesting niche
I found more sylistic variation in the red wines than in the whites
A footnote and a round of applause for two high level seminars on Champagne
Note for me: save the date for next year’s show.
