Wine Hospitality in Abruzzo
It’s a joy to seek out the wineries of Abruzzo among the region’s glorious landscapes of mountains, hills and coastline and while wine icon Valentini is not open for tours and tastings, most wineries, both large and small, welcome visitors with genuine warmth and enthusiasm. Some estates offer attractive accommodation, meals and activities too, so plan well to make the most of Abruzzo – a real wine lover’s dream destination.
Emidio Pepe www.emidiopepe.com
Everything is as natural as possible at this, one of Abruzzo’s most celebrated family-run wineries. Grapes are crushed by foot treading and fermentation is spontaneous, the wines are made in concrete and unfiltered and ageing continues for decades. Around half of the Trebbiano d’Abruzzo and Montepulciano produced in good vintages is stored to age indefinitely in a purpose-built cellar containing around 350,000 bottles. Bottles are numbered, labels are attached by hand and corks are replaced at intervals to guarantee the wine’s integrity. There is also cosy farmhouse style accommodation next to the winery with a bio-pool and lovely views. Book for a meal with a paired vertical tastings – an unforgettable experience.
Wine to try: Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Colline Teramane
Depending on the vintage and how long it’s been aged, the Emidio Pepe version of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is rich and complex, with a fresh fruit entry, smooth tannins and intense character combining chocolate and spice, smoky coffee and licorice.
Cataldi Madonna https://cataldimadonna.com/
Luigi Cataldi Madonna is to thank for the resurrection of one of the region’s top white grapes, Pecorino. With his daughter, young winemaker Giulia Cataldi Madonna, in charge, this historic organic winery high in the hills of inland Abruzzo continues on its path making fresh and elegant wines with traditional varieties. The wild and beautiful area where the winery is, near Ofena, is known as the oven of Abruzzo for its high temperatures while the nearby Calderone glacier adds a cooling influence leading to extreme temperature swings. The estate symbol is based on a sixth century warrior statue found nearby; the original can be seen at Chieti’s archeological museum.
Wine to try: Giulia – Pecorino Terre d’Abruzzo IGT
Luigi Cataldi Madonna first made this wine to celebrate his daughter’s 18th birthday and it continues to be a favourite for its verticality and vibrant acidity. Its citrussy flavours and mineral vibe make it delicious on its own and it also pairs perfectly with shellfish.
Tenuta I Fauri https://tenutaifauri.it/
Valentina and her winemaker brother Luigi are the latest generation of the Di Camillo family behind this attractive winery at 250m.asl in the hills between the Majella mountains and the coast, close to Chieti. The estate is made up of 14 different plots for a total of 30ha of typical Abruzzo grape varieties and wines include a fun pét-nat Pecorino that’s perfect to sip by the pool at their on-site b&b. It’s a lovely spot among the hills and the resident cats contribute to the warm welcome. Try too the Cerasuolo, which takes the family nickname: Baldovino.
Wine to try: Ottobre Rosso – Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC
A fabulously intense and immediate Montepulciano d’Abruzzo which ferments and matures for nine months in concrete vats. Rich red and black fruit flavours intertwine with light spicy and mineral notes and well-integrated tannins for a memorable sip.
Fontefico www.fontefico.it
A 15ha organic estate in southern Abruzzo, close to Vasto and a stone’s throw from the Punta Aderci nature reserve and Costa dei Trabocchi, celebrated for its striking traditional fishing platforms. Brothers Nicola and Emanuele Altieri run the winery together with their sister Valeria in a delightful location with a lush garden where they offer cookery classes and tasting lunches with typical local cuisine. The vicinity of the coast adds a zinging sapidity to the wines and the labels, designed by Emanuele, are as fresh and intriguing as the wines themselves, changing each year to reflect the character of the vintage.
Wine to try: Portarispetto – Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Superiore
Like all of the estate’s wines, grapes for this deliciously vibrant Trebbiano d’Abruzzo are sourced from a single vineyard. It’s made in steel vats to retain the fresh characteristics and has an impressive herby and fresh lemony vibe when young, developing in intensity and explosiveness after a few years in the bottle.
Masciarelli www.masciarelli.it
A leading Abruzzo winery founded in 1981 by the late Gianni Masciarelli and now run with flair by his wife Marina Cvetic – whose own range of wines was launched in 1991 – and daughters Miriam Lee and Chiara. The estate has grown from its initial two hectares at Villa Gemma to a total of around 300ha in various parts of the region and experimentation is continuous. Wine excellence is paired with art and architecture at Castello di Semivicoli, a stunning 17th century castle with mountain views and 11 guest rooms where an authentic historic context is complemented and highlighted by design furnishings and the occasional touch of contemporary art.
Wine to try: Marina Cvetic – Trebbiano d’Abruzzo DOC Riserva
An intense golden yellow Trebbiano from a historic vineyard near the winery’s original cellar at Villa Gemma. Fermentation in French oak and ageing on the lees brings great complexity and length to this wine along with saffron flavours and spicy notes.
Pettinella www.vinipettinella.com
Sixteen years have passed since Giuliano Pettinella, inspired by his uncle, decided to have a major change of life, leaving his career in law and moving to the family origins in the hills at the heart of Abruzzo. Giuliano and his wife Francesca, also a former lawyer, take care of the total 3ha in two plots and they make just two wines: a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC that spends 18 months in wood and Cerasuolo, the first wine he made, that has become a benchmark for the style in the region.
Wine to try: Tauma – Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC
Perfect with the Abruzzo favourite arrosticini (lamb skewers), this unfiltered deep cherry-hued wine is fermented in wood, before spending a period of maturation in steel. It’s intense and savoury with aromas of pomegranate and herbs and a light smoky finish.
Feudo Antico https://feudoantico.it/
Based at Tollo, at the heart of the tiny DOCG Tullum denomination area, this contemporary winery is the experimental, top range branch of the Cantina Tollo cooperative. It’s actually built around the remains of an ancient Roman villa, parts of which are beautifully showcased in the museum downstairs, while upstairs are four contemporary and stylish b&b guest rooms and a small spa with steam room and whirlpool tub overlooking the vines. In honour of the historic site, wines include an amphora-made Montepulciano d’Abruzzo and Pecorino, both Tullum DOCG and certified organic.
Wine to try: Pecorino Terre Aquilane IGP Casadonna
An inspiring project, this limited edition wine is made for three Michelin-starred chef Niko Romito from grapes grown at 800m.asl opposite his Casadonna hotel and restaurant, Reale, at Castel di Sangro. It’s a fresh, intense and citrussy wine with a mineral backbone.
Fattoria Nicodemi www.nicodemi.com
Run by Alessandro Nicodemi, president of the Abruzzo wine consortium, together with his sister Elena, this 30ha organic estate at the heart of the Colline Teramane hills in northern Abruzzo has vines at 200m-asl to 300m.asl. The family has always firmly believed in the characteristic qualities of wines from the area and helped work for DOCG recognition in 2003. Visitors receive a warm welcome and tours include a stroll through the pergola-trained vines that are over 50 years old and a tasting at the stylish tasting room overlooking vines.
Wine to try: Cocciopesto – Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG Colline Teramane
The winery started experimenting with Montepulciano from old vines fermented and aged in cocciopesto (slightly different from terracotta) amphoras in 2017 and this rich, deep ruby-purple wine with berry fruit flavours and balsamic overtones is the excellent result.
Cirelli www.cirelliwines.com
Hidden in the lush vegetation and steep slopes of the Valle del Piomba just 8km from the Adriatic sea, surrounded by nature reserves and with great biodiversity, Francesco Cirelli’s small estate is a countryside idyll where, together with wife Michela, he made the dream inspired by childhood memories of his farmer grandparents come true. Glamping-style accommodation surrounded by olive trees includes two wooden lodges with steeply sloping roofs opening onto private terraces over the wooded hills. There are two ranges of wines: classic and amphora-made, the latter including a blend of vintages for a well-balanced and rich Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.
Wine to try: Anfora – Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC
Bursting with juicy fruit flavours, this fresh and vibrant cherry-coloured wine, made from hand-harvested Montepulciano d’Abruzzo grapes spends about 12 months in terracotta amphoras. It’s versatile at the dinner table and delicious alone.
Pasetti www.pasettivini.it
With a winery near the coast and vines that climb high into the mountains behind, this long-standing family-run estate has a character all of its own. Domenico Pasetti is flanked by his three children, including winemaker Davide and Francesca who the Testarossa range is dedicated to, in honour of her red hair. Bold projects including moving soil layers in order for the vines to benefit from the best locations combined with the most suitable terrain. The estate’s agriturismo, Tenuta Testarossa, offers b&b accommodation in a charming stone building with a pool surrounded by vines at 550m.asl within the Gran Sasso and Monti della Laga National Park.
Wine to try: Gesmino – Abruzzo DOC Passito bianco
Moscatello di Castiglione is the rare old local grape variety behind this luscious white passito. Grapes grown at 550m.asl are harvested by hand and spend around 40 days in the drying warehouse during which time the sugars are concentrated. The result is delicious, with sweetness balanced by fresh acidity.
